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November CAL Sailor's Moon Cropped Sweater- Week Two

Posted on November 13, 2017 by Lorene Eppolite | 0 Comments

Hello Fun with Furlers, Lorene from Cre8tion Crochet here, I hope you are having an amazing day. I am excited to bring you the first part of the Sailor's Moon Cropped Sweater pattern. I think this is the most fun CAL that I've done with Furls.  You can check out my other CAL's that I've done with Furls, as well as all of my other patterns in my Ravelry.

 

Last week weeks post was the supply list and a fun giveaway.  Congratulations to our winners- Kelly, Linda, Anne and Karen (you will each be contacted by email)!!!

So let's hop right into Part One of the Sailor's Moon Cropped Sweater. If you have any questions feel free to ask me in the Fun with Furls Facebook group. You can also Favorite this pattern in Ravelry and ask me any questions there.  

YARN
Lion Brand Heartland (100% acrylic, 5 oz / 142 g):|
475 (500, 600, 650, 775, 900, 1000, 1150) yds (2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5) skeins) for boat-neck version, shown in 122 Grand Canyon
or
850 (875, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1325, 1450, 1600) yds (4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7) skeins) for sailor neck collar version, shown in 158 Yellowstone
OR any comparable worsted weight/#4 yarn with 8wpi.  You can find a list of substitutes here.

MATERIALS
Furls J/6.00mm hook in your choice of style
-I used my Furls Alpha Series, be sure to check out our super affordable new Streamline hooks
3 Buttons, about ¾" diameter (for optional collar)
Yarn needle

DIFFICULTY
Intermediate 

SIZE(S)
Small – 5x

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Bust 38½ (41¼, 46¾, 49½, 55, 60½, 63¼, 68¾)"
Length 14 (14½, 15, 15½, 16¼, 16¾, 18, 18½)"

TO FIT
Designed loose fitting (4-6" of ease in the body/bust) and close-fitting (1-2" of ease) for the ribbing sections- for information on how to measure click here

Small- 32-34" bust and 25-26 1/2" waist
Medium- 36-38" bust and 28-30" waist
Large- 40-42" bust and 32-34" waist
1x- 44-46" bust and 36-38" waist
2x- 48-50" bust and 40-42" waist
3x- 52-54" bust and 44-45" waist
4x- 56-58" bust and 56-57" waist
5x- 60-62" bust and 61-62" waist

ABBREVIATIONS
ch - chain, dc - double crochet, rep – repeat, rnd - round, RS - right side, sc - single crochet, sk – skip, sl st – slip stitch, sp – space, st(s) - stitch(es), tbl – through back, loop, WS – wrong side

SPECIAL STITCHES

Dc3tog (double crochet 3 together): [Yarn over, pull up a loop in indicated st or sp, yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 3 times, yarn over and draw through all 4 loops on hook.

Granny – 3 dc all in same indicated sp or st

Sc2tog (single crochet 2 together): Pull up a loop in each of 2 indicated sts or sps, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

NOTES 

  • Ch 3 at beginning of granny rows counts as first dc
  • Ch 1 at beginning of ribbed/edging rows is not considered the first st
  • Pattern is worked in joined and turned rounds unless noted
  • When instructed to join round, always join with a slip st in top of ch-3 at beginning of round
  • Ch-1 spaces between grannies are not listed in stitch count
  • Pattern is written in size small with changes for M, L, 1x, 2x, 3x, 4x and 5x in parenthesis

GAUGE
4 Grannies (including ch-1 sps in between) and 8 rows = 5½" (14 cm)
Gauge pattern and picture tutorial can be found here.

PATTERN
All photo tutorials are shown in size small

YOKE

Ch 60 (60, 60, 60, 68, 68, 68, 68), and join into a circle with sl st in first ch.
*As with any garment, be sure you do not make your chain too tight. If you tend to make tight chains then I'd suggest using a larger hook for this portion, or be mindful of being looser. Alternatively, you can use a foundation single crochet if you wish, I personally did not love the look of a foundation chain with this particular garment which is why I chose a ch.

Rnd 1 (WS):  Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), dc each of next 2 ch, ch 3, dc in each of next 3 ch (first corner made), * [ch 1, sk next ch, dc in each of next 3 ch] 5 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) times, ch 3, dc in each of next 3 ch (next corner made), * ch 1, sk next ch, dc in each of next 3 ch, ch 3, dc in each of next 3 ch (next corner made), rep from * to * once more, ch 1, join, turn – 16 (16, 16, 16, 18, 18, 18, 18) Grannies and 4 ch-3 corner sps.

 

Rnd 2:  Ch 3, 2 dc in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in first corner ch-3 sp, * (ch 1, 3 dc) in each ch-1 sp to next corner ch-3 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next corner ch-3 sp, * ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp , ch 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next corner ch-3, rep from * to * once more, ch 1, join, turn – 20 (20, 20, 20, 22, 22, 22, 22) Grannies.

 

Rnd 3:  Ch 3, 2 dc in first ch-1 sp, * ch 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-3 sp, (ch 1, 3 dc) in each ch-1 sp to next corner ch-3 sp; rep from * twice more, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-3 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, join, turn – 24 (24, 24, 24, 26, 26, 26, 26) Grannies.

Next 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12) rnds:  Ch 3, 2 dc in first ch-1 sp, * (ch 1, 3 dc) in each ch-1 sp to next corner ch-3 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-3 sp, rep from * 3 more times, (ch 1, 3 dc) in each ch-1 sp to end, ch 1, join, turn – 48 (52, 56, 56, 62, 66, 70, 74) Grannies
Fasten off.

 Image is shown after Round 5

 

SEPARATE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES

With RS facing, join yarn with a sl st in a ch-3 corner sp so you are ready to work across one of the longer edges.

Next rnd (RS): Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp as joining slip st, * (ch 1, 3 dc) in each ch-1 sp to next ch-3 corner sp, ch1, 3 dc in ch-3 corner sp, ch 1 (1, 4, 7, 7, 10, 10, 13) for underarm * 3 dc in next ch-3 corner sp skipping all sts in between (armhole made), rep from * to * once more, join (second armhole made), turn – 30 (32, 34, 34, 38, 40, 42, 44) Grannies and 2 (2, 8, 14, 14, 20, 20, 26) underarm ch sts .

 

BODY

Rnd 1:  Ch 3, 2 dc in next underarm ch (be sure to work into the ch st and not the space), * [ch 1, sk 2 ch, 3 dc in next ch] 0 (0, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4) times, (ch 1, 3 dc) in each ch-1 sp to next underarm ch, * ch 1, 3 dc in next underarm ch, rep from * to * once more, ch 1, join, turn – 30 (32, 36, 38, 42, 46, 48, 52) Grannies.

Rnds 2-5:  Ch 3, 2 dc in first ch-1 sp, (ch 1, 3 dc) in each ch-1 sp around, ch 1, join, turn. If you 'd like to make the sweater longer, add as many rows here as you like, be sure to end on an odd number.

Rnd 6:  Ch 3, turn, 2 dc in first ch-1 sp, 3 dc in each ch-1 sp around, join – 30 (32, 36, 38, 42, 46, 48, 52) Grannies (no ch-1 spaces in between).

 

Bottom Ribbing
Ribbing is worked back and forth in rows.

 

Ch 13.

Row 1 (RS):  Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 10 ch, sc2tog over next ch and 2nd dc at Body edge skipping over first dc, turn – 12 sc.

 

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc tbl in each sc to end, turn – 12 sc.

 

Row 3:  Ch 1, sc tbl in each of first 11 sc, sc2tog over next sc and 2nd dc at Body edge skipping over first dc, turn – 12 sc.

 

Rep Rows 2 and 3 alternately around bottom edge.

With WS facing and working downward, join first and last rows by working sl sts through both layers.

Next rnd (RS):  Ch 1, sc evenly around bottom edge.

Fasten off.

 

 

That's it 'til next week when we will do the sleeves. If you are making the boat neck than you'll be done after Week Two, if you are making the optional split sailor neckline than you'll finish that up on Week Three.




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A Note About Comments

Furls Crochet Team

November 9th, 2016

Hey everybody! Shortly into our CALs we realized that our out-of-the-box blog comment system wouldn't let us reply to your comments.

We've since installed Disqus, above, which allows you guys to respond to each other and us to reply to your questions; seems like a no-brainer!

We will continue to display existing comments from the old comment system on all existing blog posts. All future commenting will be done through Disqus. Enjoy!