Asymmetrical Crochet Shawl
Unfurled Beauty- free crochet pattern
The Unfurled Beauty asymmetrical crochet shawl is a fun pattern that is great for all seasons. It features great color changes and a pretty lace edge. Part of the lace edge is crocheted at the same time of the body.
SUPPLIES
YARN
2 skeins of Oink Pigments Sport Weight Superwash Merino- 100g/345yds, 100% Domestic Superwash Merino 2-ply in your Main Color (MC)- Sample uses Zoot Suit Riot
1 skein of Oink Pigments Sport Weight Superwash Merino- 100g/345yds, 100% Domestic Superwash Merino 2-ply in your Accent Color (AC)- Sample uses Kernel Mustard
MATERIALS
6.0mm J/ Green Apple Furls Candy Shop hook – body of shawl
5.0mm H/Strawberry Furls Candy Shop hook – edging of shawl
stitch markers
PATTERN DETAILS
DIFFICULTY
Easy- Projects uses yarn with basic stitches, repetitive stitch patterns, simple color changes, and simple shaping and finishing.
FINISHED SIZE- post blocking
34” tall x 52” long on short end and 60” long on tall end
GAUGE- PRE blocking
13sts and 7 rows dc = 4”
Gauge is not very important with this project. If you are using a sport weight superwash merino and the appropriate size hook than even if your tension is a little tighter or looser than mine, you will be fine.
However, if you are using a different fiber, or you are super regimented than you can go ahead and do a gauge swatch.
Pre-blocking gauge is 13sts and 7 rows in 4" - dc stitches, 6.0mm hook
Post-blocking gauge will be dependent on your fiber. We recommend superwash merino, as the Oink Pigments yarn is, or another natural animal fiber. Cotton, even though it is a natural fiber, will not block the same way as an animal fiber. Synthetics will provide very different results.
If you are using a synthetic fiber, such as acrylic, we recommend using a larger hook, perhaps 6.5mm or using a thinner yarn, such as fingering weight.
STITCH GUIDE
ch(s) - chain(s), sc - single crochet, dc - double crochet, st(s) - stitch(es), RS - right side,
SPECIAL STITCHES
dc2tog- double crochet two together
yarn over (YO), insert hook into first st, YO and draw up a loop, (three loops on hook), YO and pull through first two loops (two loops remaining on hook), YO, insert hook in next st, YO and draw up a loop (four loops on hook), YO, pull through first two loops on hook, YO and pull through remaining three loops.
ex-dc- extended double crochet
Yarn over (YO), insert hook in stitch or space, YO and draw through st/sp, 3 loops on hook, YO and draw through first loop only, YO and draw through next to loops on hook, 2x.
NOTES
* The body of the shawl and a portion of the edging are completed all in one step. * The body will consist of plain dc stitches and the 5dc cluster (and ch 5) at the end of each row will be part of the edging
* Ch 3, in even rows, is considered first dc of each row
* Ch 5, in odd rows will become part of the edging, does not count as a stitch
* Stitch counts are in brackets <> at the end of each row until row 4 (ch 5 is not included in st count)
* Each repeat of pattern (rows 3 & 4) adds 2sts to the body of the shawl
* You can use any striping pattern that you prefer, to get the same striping pattern as our sample, follow the Color Guide at the end of the pattern. All color changes will take place on the solid edge, not the ch-5 edge.
* Do not turn your work at the end of the row, the next row begins with instructions to do BEFORE you turn
PATTERN
Row 1: Starting with 6.0mm J/ Green Apple Furls Candy Shop hook, Ch 4, 4dc in 4th ch from hook, do not turn <5dc>
Row 2: Ch 3 and turn, dc same dc, dc next st, skip 2-dc, 5dc in last dc, do not turn <3dc, skip 2, 5dc cluster>
Row 3: Ch 5 and turn, skip 2-dc 5dc in next dc, (mark the 3rd dc), skip 2-dc, dc in each dc to last st, 2dc in last dc, do not turn <4dc, skip 2, 5dc cluster>
Row 4: Ch 3 and turn, dc same dc, dc in each st until 2 sts before marked st, skip 2-dc, 5dc in MS, leave remaining sts unworked, do not turn <5dc, skip 2, 5dc cluster>
Rows 5-75: Repeat rows 3 & 4 consecutively, each row will add 1 st to the body portion of the shawl
Row 76: Ch 3 and turn, dc same dc, dc in each st until 2 sts before marked st, skip 2- dc, 5dc in MS, leave remaining sts unworked, do not turn <77dc, skip 2, 5dc cluster>
Row 77: Ch 5 and turn, skip 2-dc 5dc in next dc, (mark the 3rd dc), skip 2-dc, dc in each of the next 10-dc, [dc2tog, dc in each of the next 3-dc] 4x, dc next 16 dc, [2dc next dc, dc in each of the next 4-dc] 4x, dc in each of the next 10-dc, 2dc in the last st <78dc, skip 2, 5dc cluster>
Row 78: Ch 3 and turn, dc same dc, dc in each st until 2 sts before marked st, skip 2- dc, 5dc in MS, leave remaining sts unworked, do not turn <79dc, skip 2, 5dc cluster>
Row 79: Ch 5 and turn, skip 2-dc 5dc in next dc, (mark the 3rd dc), skip 2-dc, dc in each of the next 10-dc, [dc2tog, dc in each of the next 3-dc] 4x, dc next 18 dc, [2dc next dc, dc in each of the next 4-dc] 4x, dc in each of the next 10-dc, 2dc in the last st <80dc, skip 2, 5dc cluster>
Row 80 Ch 3 and turn, dc same dc, dc in each st until 2 sts before marked st, skip 2- dc, 5dc in MS, leave remaining sts unworked, do not turn <81dc, skip 2, 5dc cluster>
Row 81: Ch 5 and turn, skip 2-dc 5dc in next dc, (mark the 3rd dc), skip 2-dc, dc in each of the next 10-dc, [dc2tog, dc in each of the next 3-dc] 4x, dc next 20 dc, [2dc next dc, dc in each of the next 4-dc] 4x, dc in each of the next 10-dc, 2dc in the last st <82dc, skip 2, 5dc cluster>
Row 82: Ch 3 and turn, dc same dc, dc in each st until 2 sts before marked st, skip 2- dc, 5dc in MS, leave remaining sts unworked, do not turn <83dc, skip 2, 5dc cluster>
Row 83: Ch 5 and turn, skip 2-dc 5dc in next dc, (mark the 3rd dc), skip 2-dc, dc in each dc to last st, 2dc in last dc, do not turn <84dc, skip 2, 5dc cluster>
Row 84: Ch 3 and turn, dc same dc, dc in each st until 2 sts before marked st, skip 2- dc, 5dc in MS, leave remaining sts unworked, do not turn <85dc, skip 2, 5dc cluster>
Row 85: Ch 5 and turn, skip 2-dc 5dc in next dc, (mark the 3rd dc), skip 2-dc, dc in each dc to last st, 2dc in last dc, do not turn <86dc, skip 2, 5dc cluster>
Row 86: Ch 3 and turn, dc same dc, dc in each st until 2 sts before marked st, skip 2- dc, 5dc in MS, leave remaining sts unworked, do not turn <87dc, skip 2, 5dc cluster>
Row 87: This is your row to set up for your edging. Using main color, change to your 5.0mm H/Strawberry Furls Candy Shop hook. Ch 7 and turn, skip 2-dc, 3dc next dc (mark the ch-7 space), skip 3-dc, *[2dc, ch 5, 2dc] in next st (this will be referred to as a shell throughout rest of pattern), skip 3-dc, repeat from * to end. 3dc in last dc.
Edging Row 1 (WS): This is your first complete edging row. Change to your accent color, using same 5.0mm H/Strawberry Furls Candy Shop hook, Ch 3 and turn, 2dc in the same st, skip next 2-dc, ex-dc in the space before the next shell (figure 1 below shows what I mean by 'in the space before the next shell'), skip next 2-dc, *[2dc, ch 4, 2dc] in ch-5 of next shell, skip next 2-dc, ex-dc in space between this shell and next shell, repeat from * to marked ch-7 space, skip next 2-dc, [4dc, ch 4, 4dc] in marked space (mark the ch-4), skip next 2-dc, ex-dc in the st that corresponds with the 5-dc from Part One (figure 2 below), *[2dc, ch 4, 2dc] in ch-5 of next shell, ex-dc in the st that corresponds with the 5-dc from Part One, repeat from * to the last 5-dc space, this will bring you to where you started the shawl in Part One, 3dc in the bottom of the original ch 4.
Figure 1
Figure 2
NOTE on Edging Row 2: Your edge may have a slight ruffle. This ruffle will settle flat, once you block your shawl and the body of the shawl opens up. However if you are getting a large ruffle, you are using an acrylic, or you are using a larger hook than what the pattern calls for, you can change the 2dc in the ex-dc to just 1dc in the ex-dc, you can even choose to make this a fpdc if you like. This should reduce the ruffling. If this is not enough of an adjustment, you can change the [3dc, ch 2, 3dc] to a [2dc, ch 2, 2dc] or alternate between them both.
Edging Row 2 (RS): This is your very last row... congrats, you are almost done. Continue with accent color and your 5.0mm H/Strawberry Furls Candy Shop hook, Ch 3 and turn, 2dc in same st, skip next 2-dc, 2dc in the next ex-dc, skip next 2-dc, *[3dc, ch 2, 3dc] in the ch-4 of next shell (figure 3), skip 2-dc, 2dc in the next ex-dc, repeat from * to the last ex-dc before the marked shell, skip first dc of shell, dc in each of the next 3-dc of the shell, [3dc, ch 2, 3dc] in ch-4 of shell, dc in each of the next 3-dc of shell, skip last dc of shell, 2dc in next ex-dc (figure 4), skip 2-dc, **[3dc, ch 2, 3dc] in the ch-4 of next shell, skip 2-dc, 2dc in the next ex-dc, skip 2-dc, repeat from ** to last dc, 3dc in last dc.
Figure 3
Figure 4
COLOR GUIDE
Rows 1-15 Main Color
Rows 16-17 Accent Color
Rows 18-27 Main Color
Rows 28-31 Accent Color
Rows 32-45 Main Color
Rows 46-47 Accent Color
Rows 48-49 Main Color
Rows 50-51 Accent Color
Rows 52-59 Main Color
Rows 60-65 Accent Color
Rows 66-73 Main Color
Rows 74-75 Accent Color
Rows 76-77 Main Color
Rows 78-79 Accent Color
Rows 80-87 Main Color
Edging Row 1-2 Accent Color
FINISHING
Block your shawl to finished measurements, or as needed. I prefer the wet blocking method for this pattern, but you can use whatever blocking methods you prefer, or that will work with your yarn. If you are not sure how to block, or what method to use, we can discuss this in the facebook group, Fun with Furls.
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Lorene Eppolite is the designer behind Cre8tion Crochet. She has been designing since October 2012. She loves to create fun and easy crochet accessories and garments. Lorene strives to make her designs to be achievable for any skill level. Just because it is easy, doesn’t mean it can’t be beautiful. Lorene was named one of the Top Ten Designers by The Yarn Box in 2012 and by AllFreeCrochet in 2013-2017. Most recently Lorene has become the Creative Director for Furls Crochet. Follow Lorene by Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram.
