The Balsam Alpine Cowl features soft peaks and valleys made using the textured Alpine Stitch. Its cowl neck adds a warm element to the design for comfort and style.
With contrasting texture of raised stitches in the main body and edging, this textured triangle cowl is a striking accessory that will complement your wardrobe. The illusion of peaks and valleys made by the Alpine stitch give this cowl a distinct and fashionable design.
The Balsam Alpine Cowl includes directions for sizes XS-5X and includes instructions on how to customize for any fit preference.
ABOUT OUR DESIGNER
Lorene Eppolite is the designer behind Cre8tion Crochet. She has been designing since October 2012. She loves to create fun and easy crochet accessories and garments. Lorene strives to make her designs to be achievable for any skill level. Just because it is easy, doesn’t mean it can’t be beautiful.
Lorene is also the founder of A Year in Crochet. This yearly membership features an exclusive, size inclusive, garment design and a new accessory design each month.
Lorene lives in Eastern NC with her husband and three kids. She also has two adorable Pot Belly Pigs. It is Lorene's dream to have a full blown mini farm/homestead.
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SUPPLIES
- Red Heart Soft 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) skeins
OR
450 (470, 470, 500, 500, 540, 540, 575, 575) yards of comparable weight yarn
Samples shown in Off White and Minty
- K/6.5mm hook- I used my Blue Odyssey
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Size
Triangle
19.5" tall from center tip to top- all sizes
18" wide at top of triangle (before adding cowl neck)- all sizes
Cowl Neck
10" tall/ 5" when folded- all sizes
10 (11, 11, 11.5, 11.5, 12, 12, 12.5, 12.5) wide
OR
20 (22, 22, 23, 23, 24, 24, 25, 25)" circumference
Sample shown in Medium
Skill Level
Adventourous beginner- Indermediate
Stitch Information
This design uses the Alpine Stitch. It is performed differently in the pattern, to create the V shape, but if you are unfamiliar with this stitch you can learn the basics in this video by Furls. The only differences are that I prefer to use a foundation row to begin (you will not use a foundation row for the cowl pattern, only if you need to practice the stitch or gauge). I also use a CSDC instead of a ch-3 and I use an extended st (ex-fpdc) for the textured post stitches. See 'Special Stitches' below for detailed stitch descriptions.
Gauge
11st and 8 rows = 4" in pattern
Gauge is not imperative with this design, as you will be able to adjust according for different yarns used.
Gauge Pattern: Alpine Stitch
Row 1: FDC 6" across (even number increment), turn work OR chain 6+" across (odd number increment), dc in the 4th ch from the hook (counts as first and second dc), dc in each ch to end, turn work.
Row 2: Ch 3 or CSDC, dc in next st, dc in each st to end, turn work.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn work.
Row 4: Ch 3 or CSDC, *ex-fpdc in next dc from two rows below, dc in next st, repeat from * until one st remains, dc in last st, turn work.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn work.
Row 6: Ch 3 or CSDC, dc in next st, *ex-fpdc in next dc from two rows below, dc in next st, repeat from * until one st remains, dc in last st, turn work.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn work.
Row 8: Ch 3 or CSDC, *ex-fpdc in next dc from two rows below, dc in next st, repeat from * until one st remains, dc in last st, turn work.
Repeat Rows 5 through 8: until swatch measures 6"
Measure your 4" in the center of this swatch, starting at a sc row for height. See this tutorial on how to properly measure gauge.
Basic rules are: ex-fpdc in each dc from two rows below and dc in each sc st where the st two rows below is an ex-fpdc. The first and last sts of each dc/ex-fpdc row will be a dc. This will mean that every other row will begin with two dc and the next row will end with two dc.
Abbreviations
blo - back loop only, dc - double crochet, RS - right side, sc - single crochet, sl st - slip stitch, st(s) - stitch(es), WS - wrong side
Special Stitches
CSDC- Chainless Starting Double Crochet - Tutorial
If working in rows, turn work. If working in rounds spin hook completely around, making a twist in the loop. Pull up a loop to the height of a normal dc. YO with the loop so that the hook is behind the loop. Insert the hook into the first st of row. Complete a normal dc (YO and draw through st (3 loops on hook). YO and draw through first two loops on hook. YO and draw through last two loops on hook).
Ex-fpdc- Extended Front Post Double Crochet
Yarn over (YO), insert hook from front to back around the post of the indicated st, st, YO and pull through st (3 loops on hook), YO and draw through one loop, [YO and draw through two loops] 2x.
Fsc- Foundation Single Crochet (working off of the top edging) –
Tutorial (fsc only)
Ch 2, insert hook into the side of the last st you made on the triangle, *yarn over (YO) and pull up loop (2 loops on hook), YO and pull through one loop, creating a chain, (this is an important step but easy to forget). YO and pull through two remaining loops on hook. This completes the first fsc. To stitch the next fsc insert the hook into the chain made in the first fsc and repeat from * to desired length or until the desired amount of sts are achieved.
Notes
- Triangle portion of the pattern is made in turned rows.
- The post stitches are worked on right side rows only.
- The cowl portion of the pattern is worked in turned ribbed rows that are seamed to finish.
- The pattern is written in size XS with changes for S, M, L, 1x, 2x, 3x, 4x and 5x. If there are only one set of directions, or one number listed, it pertains to all sizes.
- Ch 3 counts as the first dc, you can also use the alternate CSDC (see special stitches).
- Ch 1 does not count as the first sc.
Construction
The triangle portion of the cowl is made in turned rows, starting at the bottom 'V'. Each dc row is increased on the sides to add width to the triangle. The decorative post sts are added on the right side of the work.
Once the triangle portion is the desired height the edging is added, working around the the two bottom sides only, in turned rows.
Next the top is edged and width is added to the cowl neck by spanning the distance between the top two corners. The cowl neck is then worked perpendicular to the edging you just completed, in turned rows working in the back loop only.
After the cowl portion is completed it is seamed to finish.
PART ONE
Hello there Furlers. This week we are going to be making the body portion of the cowl. This portion can be customized for any size you prefer. The finished size of the completed cowl will be dictated by the cowl neck, so you can make this section as large or small as you wish.
The pattern includes directions for how many rows I used to get the look in the sample
Row 1: Ch 4 (counts as first dc and one extra ch), dc in the first ch 4 times, turn work. <5 dc>
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first dc and in each dc to end, turn work. <5 sc>
NOTE: The next row will be the most complicated of the pattern. Just read through each part of the directions carefully. You will end up with 2 dc, 1 post st, 1 dc, 1 post st, 1 dc, 1 post st, 2 dc. The 3 post sts will be worked into the center 3 dc in Row 1.
Row 3: Ch 3 or CSDC in the first sc, dc in same (first) st, [ex-fpdc in the next dc from one row below, dc in the same sc (working behind the ex-fpdc just made] three times, dc in the last sc, turn work. <9 dc>
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in the first dc and in each dc to end, turn work. <9 sc>
Row 5: Ch 3 or CSDC in the first sc, dc in the same sc, *ex-fpdc in the next dc from one row below, dc in the next sc, repeat from * to end, place an additional dc in the last st, turn work. <11 dc>
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in the first dc and in each dc to end, turn work. <11 sc>
Repeat the last two rows consecutively: until you’ve reached 39 (39, 41, 41, 41, 43, 43, 43, 45) rows total, or to desired dimensions. Each odd row will add 2 sts.
PART TWO
First we’ll need to make one change to the directions in Part One- you will need to add one more row of Alpine sts (Row 5) or remove one row of sc sts (sorry about that)
When you have reached your desired height for the first section you will move on to edging both tapered sides of the ‘V’.
Row 1: Working down the left side of the triangle towards the point, edge evenly by placing 2 sc in each row dc row end and one sc in each sc row, till you reach your beginning chain, place 3 sc in the beginning ch (mark the center/2nd sc), continue to edge venly to the top of the triangle, do not work across the top of the alpine sts, turn work.
Row 2: Working down the right side of the triangle towards the point, ch 1, sc in the first st, sc evenly to marked st, 3 sc in marked st (move the marker up to the center/2nd sc), sc evenly to the top of the triangle, do not work across the top of the alpine sts, turn work.
Row 3: Working down the left side of the triangle towards the point, ch 3 or CSDC, dc in next st, dc evenly to marked st, 3 dc in marked st (move the marker up to the center/2nd dc), dc evenly to the top of the triangle, do not work across the top of the alpine sts, turn work.
Row 4: Working down the right side of the triangle towards the point, ch 1, sc in the first st, sc evenly to marked st, 3 sc in marked st (move the marker up to the center/2nd sc), sc evenly to the top of the triangle, do not work across the top of the alpine sts, turn work.
Row 5: Working down the left side of the triangle towards the point, ch 3 or CSDC, ex-fpdc in next the dc from the previous row, *dc in next st, ex-fpdc in next the dc from the previous row**, repeat from * to marked st, when you reach the marked st you will ex-fpdc in the dc from the previous row (that corresponds with the marked st), dc in the marked st (move the st marker to this st), place an additional ex-fpdc in the dc from the previous row (where you placed the last ex-fpdc), continue working from * to ** to the top of the triangle, do not work across the top of the alpine sts, turn work.
Row 6: Working down the right side of the triangle towards the point, ch 1, sc in the first st, sc evenly to marked st, 3 sc in marked st (move the marker up to the center/2nd sc), sc evenly to the top of the triangle, do not work across the top of the alpine sts, turn work.
Row 7: Working down the left side of the triangle towards the point, ch 3 or CSDC, dc in next st, dc evenly to marked st, 3 dc in marked st (move the marker up to the center/2nd dc), dc evenly to the top of the triangle, do not work across the top of the alpine sts, turn work.
Do not Fasten off.
PART THREE
Welcome to Part Three, and the final installment, of the Balsam Alpine Cowl CAL. In weeks One and Two you made the body of the cowl and added the trim. This week we are going to be making the cowl neck portion.
The Directions below will make your cowl neck to the dimensions stated in the pattern. If you made any changes to the previous sections then you may need to adjust this portion of the pattern as well.
NOTE:
In both Rows 1 and 2; You can either use the fsc (see special stitches) or traditional chains. If you use chains please be sure they are not placed tightly. I would recommend using a larger hook for the chain section only.
Row 1: With the WS of the finished triangle facing you; Join yarn in the top right hand (or left hand if you are left handed) corner of the work. Ch 1, sc in the same st as the join, sc in each st across the top of the finished triangle, when you reach the end of the triangle you will fsc OR ch 18 (20, 20, 20, 22, 22, 24, 24, 26) times, sl st into the first sc made, skipping over the beginning ch-1, to join. This will be referred to as the ‘base row’ and will determine the total width of your cowl neck. You can add or decrease sts here, to your desired fit. Fasten Off
Row 2: With the WS of the finished triangle facing you; Join yarn in the center back of Row 1. Fsc 32 OR chain 33, turn work. This row will determine the total height of your cowl neck. You can add or decrease sts here to your desired fit.
Row 3: Sc in the first fsc OR the second ch from hook, sc in next 30 fsc/chs, sc2tog over next fsc/ch and the first st on the base row, sl st into the next st on the base row, ch 1 and turn work. <32>
Row 4: Sc in the blo in the next 31 sts, sc in both loops of the last st, turn work. <32>
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in both loops of the first sc, sc in the blo of the next 30 sts, sc2tog over next ch and the first st on the base row, sl st into the next st on the base row, ch 1 and turn work. <32>
Repeat last two rows consecutively: until all the sts on the base row are worked. Fasten off, leaving long tail for seaming.
Turn cowl inside out and mattress seam the neck, weave in ends. Weave in all ends for your cowl. Turn right side out and wear your new cre8tion!
I'd love to see your finished cowls. Please use #cre8tioncrochet so that I can find your awesome Balsam Alpine Cowls!
