Free Amigurumi Pug Pattern

Free Amigurumi Pug Pattern

 

Hello lovelies, it’s great to be back hosting another Amigurumi CAL with Furls! Did you miss me?

This month I’m excited to share these adorable little potato-shaped pugs, and also because I couldn’t get the rhyme out of my head, pug bugs! Why not?

ABOUT OUR DESIGNER

Brenna Eaves is the one-woman team behind Little Raven Fiber Arts. A self-taught fiber artist with more than 13 years’ experience building things with stitches, she has the type of yarn stash that, if unraveled and tied end to end, would stretch to the moon and back. Though also an accomplished knitter, cross-stitcher, writer, artist, and graphic designer, crochet is her happy place. She lives and works out of Wisconsin.

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SUPPLIES

-4.0mm (G) Furls Odyssey crochet hook
- Worsted weight yarn in two colors: C1 (muzzle and ears) and C2 (body) 
- Scrap yarn for nose
- Felt in pink, and color to match C1
- 6mm black plastic safety eyes
- Yarn needle
- Stuffing
- Fabric glue

PATTERN DETAILS

Stitches Use

Ch = chain, Sc = single crochet, Sc dec = single crochet decrease, Slp st = slip stitch

Other Abbreviations

FO = finish off
BLO = back loops only
Rep = repeat

 

Notes

Do not join rounds with a sl st or chain 1 at the beginning of rounds unless otherwise instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark your rounds.

PATTERN

Pug muzzle

With C1, ch 8

Rnd 1:  2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, 2 sc in next ch, sc in next 2 ch, 3 sc in last ch, turning your work upside-down so you’re working along the bottom of the chain, sc in next ch – start a sc dec over the next 2 ch but don’t finish by pulling through 3 loops, instead pull up a loop in the NEXT ch space too, so you have 4 loops on the hook, then YO and pull through all 4 loops to create a mega sc dec – sc in next ch, sc in same ch as first 2 sc. Sl st in next sc. 

FO leaving a longer tail for sewing the muzzle on. You should have a little boomerang shape. 

Prepare the pug’s eyes by cutting two small ovals from the felt that matches C1. Think of the 6mm eye as the yolk in a hard-boiled egg, and the felt as the egg white around the yolk. Create a small slit in each felt oval where the stalk of the eye can poke through.

Cut a small rectangle out of the pink felt and round the edges of one end to create the tongue. Set all the face pieces aside as you begin the pug body.

Pug body

With C2, ch 2 or magic loop

Rnd 1:  6 sc in 2nd ch from hook / loop (6)

Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3:  *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (18)

Rnd 4:  *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (24)

Rnd 5:  *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (30)

Rnds 6-7:  sc in each sc around (30) 

Time to put on the face! 

Sew the muzzle on but don’t tack down the 4-loop decrease area (the inner elbow of the boomerang shape), you’ll need to be able to glue the tongue under there later. Weave in the ends or tie them off inside the head. 

Eyes: Before securing the safety eyes with the washers, put a little dab of fabric glue onto the felt around the eyes to adhere them to the stitches. Let the glue dry a little bit before snapping on the washers.

 

Nose: Using the scrap yarn, stitch a little nose over the increase of the muzzle (right at the tippity top). Tie off the ends inside the head. 

Tongue: If you want to glue the tongue in now, dab a little bit of fabric glue to the squared end of the rectangle and wedge it under the space left in the muzzle using the tip of your yarn needle. Gently press it down and let it dry before continuing to work on the body. I like to add the tongue in at the very end as a final touch.  

Rnds 8-13:  sc in each sc around (30)

Rnd 14:  *sc dec, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (24) 

Adding the tail: Everyone’s pug faces will be placed on the body differently, so when adding the tail in the next round (rnd 15), we’ll have to figure out where to put it using the nose as the centerline of the body. Once you’ve reached that center line in Rnd 15, work (ch 6, slp st in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in each remaining ch) to create the little curling pug tail.

NOTE: If, like me, your center line coincides with a rnd 15 decrease, just work the decrease after the tail. 

Rnd 15:  *sc dec, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (18)

Rnd 16:  *sc dec, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (12) 

STUFF the pug body firmly 

Rnd 17:  sc dec around

FO and close up any remaining hole. Weave in the end.  

 

Ears (make 2)

With C1, ch 2

Row 1:  2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, TURN (2)

Row 2:  2 sc in each sc across, TURN (4)

Row 3:  ch 1, in BLO sc in each sc across, TURN (4)

Row 4:  now in both loops, sc in each sc across (4)

FO, leaving a long tail to attach the ears. Bend the ear at the crease created by the BLO row and pin an ear above each of the pug eyes, at a slight angle. Sew the ears onto the pug body and weave in the ends. 

Legs (make 4)

With C2, ch 2 or magic loop

Rnd 1:  8 sc in 2nd ch from hook / loop (8)

Rnds 2-3:  sc in each sc around (8)

FO and pin each of the legs onto the pug body so it allows his little potato body to stand. If he’s a little cattywampus, make any necessary adjustments, then sew the legs onto the pug body. Poke a little bit of stuffing into the legs before closing them up completely as you sew them to the body.

Weave in the ends. 

If you haven’t yet, glue in the little tongue now and allow to dry. 

For a Valentine’s Day twist, use pinks, whites and reds when you make your pug!

Pug BUGS

Follow the directions for the regular pug up to the little legs. 

Pug Bug Legs (make 6)

With C2, ch 2 or magic loop

Rnd 1: 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook / loop (7)

Rnd 2-3:  sc in each sc around (7)

FO and pin each of the six legs onto the pug body so it allows his little potato body to stand. He’s going to act like a little rocking horse because of all the legs, so don’t worry if not all of the legs are touching the ground. Sew the legs in place, and poke a little bit of stuffing into the legs before sewing them on completely.

Weave in the ends.

Butterfly Pug Bug Wings (make 2)

With wing color and leaving a medium-length tail, ch 5

Begin top wing: sc and 2 dc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slp st in last ch, do not FO.

Bottom wing: Ch 3, sc and 2 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, slp st in last ch, do not FO.

Complete the top wing: Sc in same ch space as the last slp st of the top wing, before the ch 3 (you’re working along the bottom of your first ch); sc in next ch, 2 hdc in next ch, 2 dc in last ch. Slp st in next sc.

FO and weave in this end only.

Pin the wings in place on the pug’s body and decide how you like them. I kept a little gap between the wings on my pug bugs; maybe you want them touching, maybe you want them really wide apart. Once you’re happy with the placement, and using the beginning yarn tail of each wing, tack the inner edges of the wings onto the back of the pug’s body. I only used two or three stitches because I wanted the wings to be able to flap.

If you haven’t yet, glue in the little tongue now and allow to dry.

DONE!

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