A few years ago I discovered tapestry crochet and absolutely fell in love with the technique. Even though it can be a bit tedious (so many single crochets!) I feel like there’s so much you can do with it to create amazing designs. It’s like painting by numbers but in crochet. So when Lorene and I started talking about a design for this CAL I immediately offered up a tapestry crochet bag. I wanted to make something that would really stand out and (hopefully) excited people.
I’ve broken up the pattern so that the most challenging part, the sides of the bag where the colorwork is located, is one section to itself. I hope you’re not put off by the colorwork because if you can do a single crochet and change colors, you can definitely make this bag. My biggest tip is to take it slow and keep counting those stitches :) . I really hope you like this design!
ABOUT OUR DESIGNER
Hi everyone!
I’m Amber from Divine Debris. I’ve been designing and playing with yarn daily since about 2012 but my mother taught me to crochet when I was around 8. As a designer, I love playing around with fun stitch combinations and colors to create bold and visually interesting designs. If I’m not crocheting, you can find me reading comic books, playing video games with my husband, or out sampling Southern California craft beer.
Keep in touch with me here
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SUPPLIES
* US H (5.00 mm) crochet hook
* Aran weight/ medium/ size #4 yarn (At least 2 colors)- sample shows Caron One Pounder in White and Caron Big Cakes in Grape Jelly
* Small: 4.2 oz/ 225 yds total with B being approx 1.7oz/ 88 yds
* Medium: 10 oz/ 530 yds total with B being approx 5 oz/ 261 yds
*Yarn needle
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished product dimensions
|
Small Height: 8.5” -9” (top of handles, not including the handles extended) Yarn: 4.2 oz/ 225 yds (with B being approx 1.7oz/ 88 yds) |
Medium Height: 15” - 15.5” (top of handles, not including the handles extended) Yarn: 10 oz/ 530 yds (with B being approx 5 oz/ 261 yds) |
Gauge
17 sc x 14 rows = 4” blocked
Notes
* This pattern is worked from the bottom to the top in 3 sections: the Base, the Sides, and the Handles. The base is worked flat in back and forth rows. The Sides and the Handles are worked in the round with a slip st into the first st of the rnd.
* The ch 1 at the beginning of the row/rnd does not count as a stitch.
* Following the ch 1, the first st is worked into the same st as join.
* Every stitch in the sides portion is a single crochet. The directions will only tell you what color (ie: Color A, Color B, etc…) and the number in the parentheses tells you how many stitches to make.
*You need to know how to work into the back loop only (BLO) for this pattern. At the end of the rnd, slip st into both loops to help keep your seam straight.
* In the example, the inactive yarn is carried behind the active. If this is confusing, you might want to check out this helpful Moogly video on tapestry.
* The sample is size medium: color A is white, and color B is the variegated purples yarn.
PART ONE
Base - all stitches for base are worked into both loops
Sizing as follows: small (medium)
Row 1: A: Ch 34 (56), sc into the second ch from the hook and into the next 32 (54) sts - 33 (55) sc
Rows 2 - 11: Ch 1, turn, sc into the next 33 (55) sts - 33 (55) sc
Rnd 12: Ch 1, turn, sc into the next 33 (55) sts, ch 1 at the corner and rotate your piece, sc into the next 11 row ends, ch 1 at the corner and rotate your piece, sc into the next 33 (55) sts across the other side of the chain on row 1, ch 1 at the corner and rotate your piece, sc into the next 11 row ends, ch 1 at the corner and rotate your piece, slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc, 4 ch-1 spaces
PART TWO
Welcome to Part Two everyone! And now we’re getting into the good stuff, right? This is the part of the bag that really makes it stand out. It’s all done in single crochet and you can carry the yarn as you work the rnds. I suggest working this section in the back loop only, it makes the carried yarn less noticeable (although it can peek through) and it combats the lean that tapestry can have. I also quite like that it gives your final product a little bit of texture. If you work BLO, make sure you slip st into both loops at the end of the rnd, as it helps to keep your seam relatively straight. Please note, I write my tapestry patterns in an abbreviated manner because all the stitches are single crochet, so you just need to know how many stitches make in what color. If you’re not used to this it might take a little to get used to.
Sides
Notes
- Every stitch in this section is a single crochet. The following directions will only tell you what color (ie: Color A, Color B, etc…) and the number in the parentheses then tells you how many single crochets to make.
- Following rnd 12 each st of the sides is worked into the back loop only. Slip st into both loops at the end of the rnd to keep your seam straight.
- Following the ch 1, the first st is worked into the same st as join.
- For rnd 13 you will not be working into the ch-1 spaces at the corners of rnd 12.
Sizing as follows: small (medium)
Rnds 13 - 15: B: Ch 1, (4), A: (2), B: (6), A: (1), B: (1), A: (4), B: (1), A: (1), *B: (6), A: (2), B: (6), A: (1), B: (1), A: (4), B: (1), A: (1),* repeat from * to * 2 (4) more times, B: (2), slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc
Rnd 16: B: Ch 1, (3), A: (4), B: (5), A: (1), B: (1), A: (4), B: (1), A: (1), *B: (5), A: (4), B: (5), A: (1), B: (1), A: (4), B: (1), A: (1),* repeat from * to * 2 (4) more times, B: (2), slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc
Rnd 17: B: Ch 1, (2), A: (6), B: (4), A: (1), B: (2), A: (2), B: (2), A: (1), *B: (4), A: (6), B: (4), A: (1), B: (2), A: (2), B: (2), A: (1),* repeat from * to * 2 (4) more times, B: (2), slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc
Rnd 18: B: Ch 1, (1), A: (3), B: (2), A: (3), B: (3), A: (1), B: (6), A: (1), *B: (3), A: (3), B: (2), A: (3), B: (3), A: (1), B: (6), A: (1), * repeat from * to * 2 (4) more times, B: (2), slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc
Rnd 19: B: Ch 1, (1), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (3), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), *B: (3), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (3), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), * repeat from * to * 2 (4) more times, B: (2), slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc
Rnd 20: B: Ch 1, (1), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (3), A: (3), B: (2), A: (3), *B: (3), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (3), A: (3), B: (2), A: (3), * repeat from * to * 2 (4) more times, B: (2), slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc
Rnd 21: B: Ch 1, (1), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (4), A: (6), *B: (4), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (4), A: (6),* repeat from * to * 2 (4) more times, B: (3), slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc
Rnd 22: B: Ch 1, (1), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (5), A: (4), *B: (5), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (5), A: (4),* repeat from * to * 2 (4) more times, B: (4), slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc
Rnds 23 - 25: B: Ch 1, (1), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (6), A: (2), *B: (6), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (6), A: (2),* repeat from * to * 2 (4) more times, B: (5), slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc
Rnd 26: B: Ch 1, (1), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (5), A: (4), *B: (5), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (5), A: (4),* repeat from * to * 2 (4) more times, B: (4), slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc
Rnd 27: B: Ch 1, (1), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (4), A: (6), *B: (4), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (4), A: (6),* repeat from * to * 2 (4) more times, B: (3), slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc
Rnd 28: B: Ch 1, (1), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (3), A: (3), B: (2), A: (3), *B: (3), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (3), A: (3), B: (2), A: (3), * repeat from * to * 2 (4) more times, B: (2), slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc
Rnd 29: B: Ch 1, (1), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (3), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), *B: (3), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), B: (3), A: (2), B: (4), A: (2), * repeat from * to * 2 (4) more times, B: (2), slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc
Rnd 30: B: Ch 1, (1), A: (3), B: (2), A: (3), B: (3), A: (1), B: (6), A: (1), *B: (3), A: (3), B: (2), A: (3), B: (3), A: (1), B: (6), A: (1), * repeat from * to * 2 (4) more times, B: (2), slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc
Rnd 31: B: Ch 1, (2), A: (6), B: (4), A: (1), B: (2), A: (2), B: (2), A: (1), *B: (4), A: (6), B: (4), A: (1), B: (2), A: (2), B: (2), A: (1),* repeat from * to * 2 (4) more times, B: (2), slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc
Rnd 32: B: Ch 1, (3), A: (4), B: (5), A: (1), B: (1), A: (4), B: (1), A: (1), *B: (5), A: (4), B: (5), A: (1), B: (1), A: (4), B: (1), A: (1),* repeat from * to * 2 (4) more times, B: (2), slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc
For Small only:
Rnds 33 - 35: B: Ch 1, (4), A: (2), B: (6), A: (1), B: (1), A: (4), B: (1), A: (1), *B: (6), A: (2), B: (6), A: (1), B: (1), A: (4), B: (1), A: (1),* repeat from * to * 2 more times, B: (2), slip st into the first st - 88 sc
Fasten off color B. Move onto the Handles section.
For Medium only:
Rnds 33 - 38: B: Ch 1, (4), A: (2), B: (6), A: (1), B: (1), A: (4), B: (1), A: (1), *B: (6), A: (2), B: (6), A: (1), B: (1), A: (4), B: (1), A: (1),* repeat from * to * 4 more times, B: (2), slip st into the first st - 132 sc
Rnds 39 - 55: repeat rnds 16 - 32, once
Rnds 56 - 58: repeat rows 13 - 15
Fasten off color B. Move onto the Handles section in Part Three, coming next week.
PART THREE
As we started, so shall we end, in a very simple section. The handles section, like the base, is worked into both loops and only consists of a few rows. You could get this section done in an afternoon. I like to add a couple decrease stitches to the handles to combat any flair on the top rnd. Keep an eye on the turns each rnd, which I added to make sure your seam nearly stays in line with the one from the sides. Feel free to add more stitches to the ch spaces (the handles) to make them longer, just make sure to add stitches both handles.
Handles
Worked into both loops
Sizing as follows: small (medium)
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc into the same st as join and into the next 87 (131) sts, slip st into the first st - 88 (132) sc
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc into the next 2 sts, sc2tog the next 2 sts, sc into the next 3 sts, sc2tog the next 2 sts, sc into the next 37 (59) sts, sc2tog the next 2 sts, sc into the next 3 sts, sc2tog the next 2 sts, sc into the next 35 (57) sts, slip st into the first st - 84 (128) sc
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, sc into the next 10 (15) sts, ch 30 (50), skip the next 13 (25) sts, sc into the next 11 (16) sts, sc2tog the next 2 sts, sc into the next 3 sts, sc2tog the next 2 sts, sc into the next 11 (16) sts, ch 30 (50), skip the next 13 (25) sts, sc into the next 11 (16) sts, sc2tog the next 2 sts, sc into the next 3 sts, sc2tog the next 2 sts, sc into the next st, slip st into the first st - 54 (74) sc, 2 ch-30 (ch-50) spaces
Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn, sc into the next 114 (174) sts (this counts both the sc and ch stitches), slip st into the first st - 114 (174) sc
Rnds 5 - 7: Ch 1, turn, sc into the next 114 (174) sts, slip st into the first st - 114 (174) sc
Fasten off, weave in your ends.
This completes the Cecelia Tapestry Bag CAL. We hope you have enjoyed making this fun bag. Be sure to share your pictures in Fun with Furls and on Instagram using #furlscrochet and #divinedebris.
