Hi, I am so excited to present the Cannelle Sweater! It is a lovely, oversized sweater with pockets that is great for the upcoming fall. I knew at once that I wanted to design something cozy and nice for you. I LOVE pockets so that was an essential and these invisible pockets make for interesting details. Made in the suzette stitch, the sweater has a nice texture. My inspiration was to make something that’s perfect to wear at home or out and about, so you get as much use out of it as possible. Pair it with jeans and boots and you’ve got a lovely outfit for a day around town.
The name Cannelle means cinnamon in French and matches, of course, the colour of the sweater but refers to my inspiration for it. When I think of autumn, my first thoughts are usually the beautiful scenery of trees with leaves in different shades of orange and the Eiffel Tower in the background. I haven’t been to Paris in autumn, but somehow that’s a picture I can’t get off my mind. For me autumn also means a lot of apple and apple pies, and with that cinnamon!
Without further ado, let’s make a cozy sweater that gives all the autumn feelings!
ABOUT OUR DESIGNER
Emilia is a 30-something year old Scandinavian crochet designer. Some of you might know her better as Coffee & Crocheting (or coffeeandcrocheting) which is the name for the design brand, but also the perfect way to describe Emilia. You often find her with coffee in one hand and hook and yarn in the other. Studying in the final years to become a medical doctor, crochet and designing is the perfect counterbalance. Making and creating as a way to enjoy life and to relax is the drive and feel behind Emilia’s work. She believes that the process of making is as important, if not more important, as the finished result.
SUPPLIES
Yarn:
- 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) (15, 16, 17, 18) skeins of Wander Furls Crochet
- 1200 - 2160 yards (1097 - 1975 m)
Notions:
Crochet hook 5 mm (H-8) and 6 mm (or the ones needed to obtain gauge)
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Stitch markers (at least 8)
Tape Measure
PATTERN DETAILS
Measurements:
Skill Level
Easy
Gauge
Body: 12 sts in 10 rows with 5 mm (H-8) hook in suzette stitch.
Ribbing: 12 st in 10 rows with 6 mm (J-10) hook in alternating Fpdc and Bpdc.
Learn the suzette stitch and make the body gauge swatch:
Chain 23.
Row 1: Sc in the 3rd ch from the hook. Dc in the same stitch. *Skip next st, sc and dc in the same stitch* repeat *-* until 2 sts left. Skip next stitch, sc. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1 (counts as sc). Dc in the first sc. *Skip next st, sc and dc in the next sc from the previous row* repeat across ending with a sc in the turning chain.
Repeat row 2 until your swatch measures 4” in height.
Ribbing gauge swatch:
Chain 19
Row 1: dc in the 3rd ch from the hook. Dc across row. Ch 2. Turn.
Row 2: *Fpdc, Bpdc* *-* repeat across row.
Row 3: *Bpdc, Fpdc* *-* repeat across row.
Repeat row 2-3 until your swatch measures 4” in height.
Crochet Stitch Abbreviations
ch = chain
sts = stitches
dc = double crochet
sc = single crochet
Fpdc = front post double crochet
Bpdc = back post double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
yo = yarn over
ss = same stitch
ws = wrong side
rs = right side
Special Stitches
Suzette stitch:
Row 1: Sc in the 3rd ch from the hook. Dc in the same stitch. *Skip next st, sc and dc in the same stitch* repeat *-* until 2 sts left. Skip next stitch, sc. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1 (counts as sc). Dc in the first sc. *Skip next st, sc and dc in the next sc from the previous row* repeat across ending with a sc in the turning chain.
Repeat row 2 for the suzette stitch.
Notes
This pattern is written in nine sizes: XS (S, M, L, 1X) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
- Model pictured is wearing a size small
The sweater is worked in four pieces: front, back and 2 sleeves. These are sewn together to make up the sweater.
Each piece is worked flat in rows and from bottom up.
The sweater is made using the suzette stitch as the main stitch. The suzette stitch is also known as the grit stitch.
The ch 1 in the beginning of the row of the suzette stitch counts as a stitch. The ch 2 as part of the ribbing does not count as a stitch.
Pro Tip! Leave a long tail before you chain so you can use it to sew the sides of the sweater and sleeves.
The measurements in the schematics are the measurements of the final garment size. Your own measurements should be 4” smaller in bust. Since the sweater goes over the hips you might want to compare to your hip width instead, you will leave the sides open around the ribbing, which gives more room for the hips.
Front
Ribbing
With the 6 mm (J-10), or the one you met ribbing gauge with: Ch 53 (59, 65, 71, 77) (83, 89, 95, 101)
Row 1: In the 3rd ch from the hook dc, dc across row. Ch 2. Turn. 51 (57, 63, 69, 75) (81, 87, 93, 99) sts
Row 2: Alternate Fpdc and Bpdc across row. Ch 2. Turn. 51 (57, 63, 69, 75) (81, 87, 93, 99) sts
Row 3: Alternate Bpdc and Fpdc across row. Ch 2. Turn. 51 (57, 63, 69, 75) (81, 87, 93, 99) sts
Row 4- 14 (14, 16, 16, 18) (20, 20, 22, 22): Repeat row 2-3. (do not ch 2 after final repeat row). Do not fasten off after final repeat row, put a stitch marker in the stitch and leave for now. Continue with the pockets.
Pockets
Place a stitch marker in the 9 (11, 13, 13, 15) (17, 19, 21, 23)rd and 22 (26, 30, 30, 32) (36, 38, 40, 44)th stitch from the edge on row 14 (14, 16, 16, 18) (20, 20, 22, 22). Repeat on the other side. Place stitch markers in the same stitches on row 2. You should now have placed 8 stitch markers. The stitch markers will be referred to as 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th counting from right to left, they exist on two levels row 2 and row 14 (14, 16, 16, 18) (20, 20, 22, 22).
Leave a tail of 12”. Attach your yarn with a slip knot in the stitch with the first stitch marker. Ch 2. Dc in the same stitch. Dc across, ending in the st before the 2nd stitch marker. Ch 2. Turn. 13 (15, 17, 17, 17) (19, 19, 19, 21) sts
Dc across row. Ch 2. Turn. 13 (15, 17, 17, 17) (19, 19, 19, 21) sts
Repeat rows of dc until your pocket height reaches the top of row 14 (14, 16, 16, 18) (20, 20, 22, 22) of your body piece, rather make one extra row than one to few. (I made 8 rows in total). Fasten off, and if you made an uneven row amount leave a 12” tail to sew the side of the pocket.
Repeat on the other side, attaching your yarn in the 3rd stitch marker and ending the row in the 4th.
Sew the sides of the pockets, using the tails you left.
Continue on the front section
After making the pockets you continue where you left the yarn after row 14 (14, 16, 16, 18) (20, 20, 22, 22) of the front section. You’ll now make the suzette stitch.
Turn.
Row 15 (15, 17, 17, 19) (21, 21, 23, 23): With the 5 mm hook, or the one you met the suzette stitch gauge with: Ch 1 (counts as the first sc), dc in the same stitch, *Skip next st, sc and dc in the next st* repeat across ending with a sc in the final dc. Keep doing the repeat when you reach the pocket, making the stitches in the pocket instead of the ribbing, i.e. in the dcs instead of Fpdc/Bpdcs. Between the pockets you make the stitches in the ribbing. Turn. 51 (57, 63, 69, 75) (81, 87, 93, 99) sts
Row 16 (16, 18, 18, 20) (22, 22, 24, 24): Ch 1 (counts as sc), dc in the first sc. *Skip next st, sc and dc in the next sc from the previous row* repeat across ending with a sc in the turning chain. Turn. 51 (57, 63, 69, 75) (81, 87, 93, 99) sts
Row 17 (17, 19, 19, 21) (23, 23, 25, 25) – 56 (58, 60, 62, 64) (66, 68, 70, 72)*: Repeat row 16 (16, 18, 18, 20) (22, 22, 24, 24). Do not fasten off. Continue with the shoulders.
*adjust the length of your sweater by making more or less rows here. Write down the amount if you adjust, so you know to make the same amount for the back section.
Shoulders
Put a stitch marker in the 18 (18, 22, 24, 26) (28, 28, 30, 34)th st from each edge. (Note! pictures from back section i.e. no pockets, front shoulders are done in the same way)
First shoulder:
Continue from where you left on the body.
Row 1: Continue working in suzette stitch, ending with a sc in the st with the stitch marker. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1 (counts as sc), dc in the first sc. *Skip next st, sc and dc in the next sc from the previous row* repeat across ending with a sc in the turning chain. Ch 1. Turn. 19 (19, 23, 25, 27) (29, 29, 31, 35) sts
Row 3-4: Repeat row 2. Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing the shoulder.
Second shoulder:
Attach your yarn in the st with the second stitch marker with a sl st.
Row 1: Ch 1 (counts as sc), dc in the st where you attached your yarn, continue working in suzette stitch, ending with a sc in the final st of the row. Ch 1. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1 (counts as sc), dc in the first sc. *Skip next st, sc and dc in the next sc from the previous row* repeat across ending with a sc in the turning chain. Turn. 19 (19, 23, 25, 27) (29, 29, 31, 35) sts
Row 3-4: Repeat row 2. Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing the shoulder.
Back
Made as the front section but without pockets.
Ribbing
Ch 53 (59, 65, 71, 77) (83, 89, 95, 101)
Row 1: In the 3rd ch from the hook dc, dc across row. Ch 2. Turn. 51 (57, 63, 69, 75) (81, 87, 93, 99) sts
Row 2: Alternate Fpdc and Bpdc across row. Ch 2. Turn. 51 (57, 63, 69, 75) (81, 87, 93, 99) sts
Row 3: Alternate Bpdc and Fpdc across row. Ch 2. Turn. 51 (57, 63, 69, 75) (81, 87, 93, 99) sts
Row 4 - 14 (14, 16, 16, 18) (20, 20, 22, 22): Repeat row 2-3. (do not ch 2 after final repeat row).
Row 15 (15, 17, 17, 19) (21, 21, 23, 23): Ch 1 (counts as sc), dc in the first sc. *Skip next st, sc and dc in the next st* repeat across ending with a sc in the final dc. Turn. 51 (57, 63, 69, 75) (81, 87, 93, 99) sts
Row 16 (16, 18, 18, 20) (22, 22, 24, 24): Ch 1 (counts as sc), dc in the first sc. *Skip next st, sc and dc in the next sc from the previous row* repeat across ending with a sc in the turning chain. Turn. 51 (57, 63, 69, 75) (81, 87, 93, 99) sts
Row 17 (17, 19, 19, 21) (23, 23, 25, 25) - 56 (58, 60, 62, 64) (66, 68, 70, 72)*: Repeat row 16 (16, 18, 18, 20) (22, 22, 24, 24). Do not fasten off. Continue with the shoulders.
*adjust the length of your sweater by making more or less rows here.
Shoulders
Put a stitch marker in the 18 (18, 22, 24, 26) (28, 28, 30, 34)th st from each edge.
First shoulder:
Continue from where you left on the body.
Row 1: Continue working in suzette stitch, ending with a sc in the st with the stitch marker. Turn. 18 (18, 22, 24, 26) (28, 28, 30, 34) sts
Row 2: Ch 1 (counts as sc), dc in the first sc. *Skip next st, sc and dc in the next sc from the previous row* repeat across ending with a sc in the turning chain. Turn. 19 (19, 23, 25, 27) (29, 29, 31, 35) sts
Row 3-4: Repeat row 2. Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing the shoulder.
Second shoulder:
Attach your yarn in the st with the second stitch marker with a sl st.
Row 1: Ch 1 (counts as sc), dc in the st where you attached your yarn, continue working in suzette stitch, ending with a sc in the final st of the row. Turn. 19 (19, 23, 25, 27) (29, 29, 31, 35) sts
Row 2: Ch 1 (counts as sc), dc in the first sc. *Skip next st, sc and dc in the next sc from the previous row* repeat across ending with a sc in the turning chain. Turn. 19 (19, 23, 25, 27) (29, 29, 31, 35) sts
Row 3-4: Repeat row 2. Do not fasten off. Leave the yarn for now. You’ll use this for the neckline.
Sleeves
The sleeves are tighter and not oversized as the rest of the sweater. If you do prefer oversized sleeves as well: make the sleeves according to instructions of one size larger, or begin with 2 or 4 more chains.
Make 2.
Ribbing
Ch 27 (29, 29, 31, 31) (31, 33, 33, 35)
Row 1: In the 3rd ch from the hook dc, dc across row. Ch 2. Turn. 25 (27, 27, 29, 29) (29, 31, 31, 33) sts
Row 2: Alternate Fpdc and Bpdc across row. Ch 2. Turn. 25 (27, 27, 29, 29) (29, 31, 31, 33) sts
Row 3: Alternate Bpdc and Fpdc across row. Ch 2. Turn. 25 (27, 27, 29, 29) (29, 31, 31, 33) sts
Row 4 – 14: Repeat row 2-3. (do not ch 2 after the final repeat row).
Row 15: Ch 1 (counts as sc), dc in the first sc. *Skip next st, sc and dc in the next st* repeat across ending with a sc in the final dc. Ch 1. Turn. 25 (27, 27, 29, 29) (29, 31, 31, 33) sts
Row 16: Ch 1 (counts as sc), dc in the first sc. *Skip next st, sc and dc in the next sc from the previous row* repeat across ending with a sc in the turning chain. Ch 1. Turn. 25 (27, 27, 29, 29) (29, 31, 31, 33) sts
Row 17 – 46: Repeat row 16, increasing* on every 7 (7, 6, 6, 5) (4, 4, 4, 4)th as according to own preference. Begin the increase from row 17. Every increase increases the stitch count by 4 sts. Easily adjust the length of your sleeves by making more or less rows.
*Increase row: Ch 1 (counts as sc), dc in the first sc, skip next st, sc and dc in the next st, sc and dc in the same stitch that you just made a sc and dc, *Skip next st, sc and dc in the next st* repeat across until the final sc/dc of the row. Sc, dc, sc, dc in the same stitch, end the row with a sc in the final dc. Turn.
Blocking
Before sewing it together, block according to measurements. Try your blocking technique on your gauge swatch first, that way you know it works for your yarn. The sample was steam blocked.
Sewing
Put the front section over the back section, right side facing out. Measure 6.3 (6.7, 7.1, 8.1, 8.9) (9.3, 9.6, 10, 10.2)" from shoulders down the side of the sweater (or if you adjusted the width of your sleeve: half of the sleeve width). Mark with a stitch marker. Sew the sides, using the mattress stitch, beginning from over the ribbing, leaving the sides open, up to the stitch marker. Repeat on the other side.
Sew the shoulders using the tails you left from the body pieces.
Fold the sleeves in half, lengthwise. Sew the sides.
Sew your sleeves to the side of your sweater.
Neckline
Row 1: Use the yarn you left after the second shoulder of the back section. Dc around the neckline, one dc in each stitch, making the dcs in the 4 corners as dc2tog. Join to the first dc of the round with a sl st. Ch 2. Turn.
Row 2-3: Alternate Fp/Bpdc around. Join to the first dc of the round with a sl st. Ch 2. Turn. (Fasten off after row 3).
Weave in all ends.
